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PLACES YOU'D RATHER BE...
Destination guides for awesome places around the world. Written by Adventurers, for Adventurers covering adventure, hiking, climbing, travel and more!
|Your next adventure:||Ceuse|
|Where in the world?||
Region: Haute Alpes
Town: Sigoyer (Haute Alpes)
Situated at an altitude of almost 1800m, Ceuse seems to have it all, from cutting edge sports routes to a plethora of easy multi-pitches.To really get the full benefit from Ceuse, allow a minimum of 2 weeks in order to get ‘route fit’ plus additional time for projecting.
|Best time of year:||Spring, summer and autumn|
|Wrap up:||Despite having a reputation as a hard mans crag, world class routes can be found as low as 6b. So regardless of your ability, you will be able to find amazing rock climbing with a backdrop of the stunning French countryside and enjoy the best rock climbing that planet earth has to offer!|
Ceuse is widely considered as one of the best crags in the world, and quite rightly so. The sweeping massif of Ceuse towers above the small French village of Sigoyer at just over 2000m.
The steep juggy walls peppered with fist and finger sized pockets run for over 3.5km and canvas 360 routes from 6a to 9a. The orange and white walls streaked with blue water runnels offer some of the best sport climbing on earth.
Routes at Ceuse are long and pumpy. More so than anything in Australia. You’ll regularly encounter 35m routes at 15-30 degrees overhung. Failure usually comes because your forearms are exploding with lactic acid, rather than not being able to “pull a move”. The more resistance training you can do before you go the better. The bolting at Ceuse is considered “sporty” by Australian standards and 6-8 meter plummets from the top of routes are common place. Make sure you are comfortable with falling and you have a trustworthy belayer.
A 10 week training program is enough to get you fit before you go. Break this down into a 4 week component (conditioning), a 3 week component (resistance training), and a 2 week component (power). The 10th week is a rest week before you fly out! Below is a training guide you could adhere to prior to your climb.
Rest days in Gap (14km away) are fun. Check out the ‘Vertige
Montagne’ (climbing shop) and sample some of the local patisseries and café’s.
The pizza restaurant down the road at La Freissinouse serves up mouth-watering
dishes most nights. Try a picnic in any of the Lucerne bail strewn fields with
a 2 Euro bottle of Bordeaux and a baguette! For a change in climbing scenery
and a break from the Ceuse walk in, Orpierre is one hour down the road and has
over 600 routes from 5a to 8c with a 5 minute walk in from the car.
David O’Donnell for sharing his knowledge and experience of Ceuse with us.
David has many years of climbing experience from having travelled all around Europe and Asia for rock climbing.
For up to date travel information, any associated risks and important matters about visiting France, check Smart Traveller before your departure.